Re: tech stuff

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Posted by Fia on April 20, 2004 at 06:57:57:

In reply to: Re: tech stuff posted by Diane on April 17, 2004 at 16:26:35:

Simple answer - no. Regular hair color will penetrate into the cortex of the hair, binding to
(or altering) your natural pigment. In order to penetrate into the cortex the cuticle of the
hair need to be lifted - that's why ammonia and hydrogen peroxide is used.

The repeated lifting of the cuticle causes weathering of the hair - some cuticles are
destroyed and some will not close properly after repeated colorings. That's why colored
hair will loose lustre and shine over time. A closed cuticle lying flat along the strand's
surface equals shiny hair that also won't suffer from much tangling (there is nothing to
catch against other strands). The more weathered the cuticle, the rougher the hair will feel
and the more it will look like the proverbial "rat's nest" you see on some people with long
hair that has colored it repeatedly over time.

The ammonia/perioxide combination actually breaks down part of the keratin/protein in
the hair each time you color your hair. With repeated colorings you actually can remove
enough of the protein to weaken your hair to the point where it breaks off (i.e.
disintegrates because there is no structure left to keep it together). That's why protein
treatments/masks are so popular with people who color regularly. They're used to replace
some of the protein lost to regular colorings - they work to some extent, but not nearly as
well as keeping the protein it where it should be - i.e. in the strands - in the first place.

I'm sure you have the commercials in the US as well where the large cosmetics companies
try to convince you that the hair color is "moisturizing" and contains "special care
ingredients" to "leave your hair completely natural and undamaged". A bunch of bull****,
by their very nature they _will_ cause structural damage to your hair - they wouldn't work
otherwise. With that not said that hair colored with regular hair color can't look good - it
can and often does - but requires some special care and pampering to conceal and to
some extent rectify the damage done by the chemicals used.

Henna on the other hand will not lift the cuticle the way regular hair color does, nor will it
break down the protein structure of your own hair. It will in fact strengthen it as it
combines with your own keratin (as Catherine has described so many times) to make it
stronger - think of it as a natural protein treatment.

Whew... *stepping off soapbox*

As you may guess - I'm not too fond of the regular stuff, especially not since doing some
research on how it really works.

/Fia

http://science.howstuffworks.com/hair-coloring.htm

Follow Ups

Re: tech stuff Diane 16:47:38 4/21/2004 (0)
Re: tech stuff Pierre 20:53:56 4/20/2004 (0)
Re: tech stuff Catherine Cartwright-Jones 08:54:42 4/20/2004 (1)
- Of course you may! (n/t) Fia 10:33:02 4/20/2004 (0)

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: Simple answer - no. Regular hair color will penetrate into the cortex of the hair, binding to : (or altering) your natural pigment. In order to penetrate into the cortex the cuticle of the : hair need to be lifted - that's why ammonia and hydrogen peroxide is used. : : The repeated lifting of the cuticle causes weathering of the hair - some cuticles are : destroyed and some will not close properly after repeated colorings. That's why colored : hair will loose lustre and shine over time. A closed cuticle lying flat along the strand's : surface equals shiny hair that also won't suffer from much tangling (there is nothing to : catch against other strands). The more weathered the cuticle, the rougher the hair will feel : and the more it will look like the proverbial "rat's nest" you see on some people with long : hair that has colored it repeatedly over time. : : The ammonia/perioxide combination actually breaks down part of the keratin/protein in : the hair each time you color your hair. With repeated colorings you actually can remove : enough of the protein to weaken your hair to the point where it breaks off (i.e. : disintegrates because there is no structure left to keep it together). That's why protein : treatments/masks are so popular with people who color regularly. They're used to replace : some of the protein lost to regular colorings - they work to some extent, but not nearly as : well as keeping the protein it where it should be - i.e. in the strands - in the first place. : : I'm sure you have the commercials in the US as well where the large cosmetics companies : try to convince you that the hair color is "moisturizing" and contains "special care : ingredients" to "leave your hair completely natural and undamaged". A bunch of bull***, : by their very nature they _will_ cause structural damage to your hair - they wouldn't work : otherwise. With that not said that hair colored with regular hair color can't look good - it : can and often does - but requires some special care and pampering to conceal and to : some extent rectify the damage done by the chemicals used. : : Henna on the other hand will not lift the cuticle the way regular hair color does, nor will it : break down the protein structure of your own hair. It will in fact strengthen it as it : combines with your own keratin (as Catherine has described so many times) to make it : stronger - think of it as a natural protein treatment. : : Whew... stepping off soapbox* : : As you may guess - I'm not too fond of the regular stuff, especially not since doing some : research on how it really works. : : /Fia
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